Tuesday, 30 August 2011

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Get Fruteland Jackson's Guitar Roots: Delta Blues together with the Beginning Delta Blues Guitar DVD and save!

  • Sales Rank: #1254500 in Books
  • Brand: Alfred
  • Model: 00-21928
  • Published on: 2002-11-01
  • Rating: NR (Not Rated)
  • Aspect ratio: 1.33:1
  • Number of discs: 1
  • Formats: Multiple Formats, Color, NTSC
  • Original language: English
  • Number of items: 1
  • Dimensions: 11.50" h x 8.75" w x .25" l,
  • Binding: Paperback
  • 48 pages
Features
  • Learn The Basic Of Delta Blues Guitar
  • For The Beginner To Advanced Player
  • DVD Contains Demonstrations And Exercises
  • Book Contains Standard Notation
  • 48 Pages

Most helpful customer reviews

0 of 0 people found the following review helpful.
I was disappointed in it and learned
By Cynthia A. Baldwin
This book is very much for a beginner. I was disappointed in it and learned nothing

0 of 1 people found the following review helpful.
Five Stars
By Daniel Zeine
simple and easy to follow, I made up a couple of my own songs. it was fun.

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First published in 1959, Our Man in Havana is an espionage thriller, a penetrating character study, and a political satire that still resonates today. Conceived as one of Graham Greene's 'entertainments,' it tells of MI6's man in Havana, Wormold, a former vacuum-cleaner salesman turned reluctant secret agent out of economic necessity. To keep his job, he files bogus reports based on Lamb's Tales from Shakespeare and dreams up military installations from vacuum-cleaner designs. Then his stories start coming disturbingly true.

  • Sales Rank: #3499267 in Books
  • Published on: 1958
  • Binding: Hardcover

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Sunday, 28 August 2011

[J452.Ebook] Free Ebook Dynamics and Control of Large Electric Power Systems, by Marija Ilić, John Zaborszky

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This book fills a void in the existing power systems literature, providing an unusually comprehensive, detailed treatment of the dynamics and control of large electric power systems.

  • Sales Rank: #3795905 in Books
  • Published on: 2000-03-31
  • Original language: English
  • Number of items: 1
  • Dimensions: 9.53" h x 1.78" w x 6.48" l, 2.90 pounds
  • Binding: Hardcover
  • 856 pages

Review
"This is a recommended book for all academic engineering libraries and for those special libraries serving the electrical industries." (E-Streams, Vol. 4, No. 8, August 2001)

Most helpful customer reviews

3 of 3 people found the following review helpful.
Comments by power system engineer in Australia
By D. Newton
This is a very good book that deserves to be widely used. I bought it and like it very much. It is an excellent complement to other better known books on electric power systems. Some parts of the book demand a level of mathematical knowledge that most undergraduate engineers will probably not have. It is probaly best suited to graduate students and practising engineers that have, or (like myself)are learning, enough modern mathematics to take full advantage of it. Despite the desirability that the reader has significantly more mathematical knowledge than the average engineer a large fraction of the book is still very usable by all electrical engineers.

0 of 0 people found the following review helpful.
Five Stars
By T. H.
good.

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Tuesday, 23 August 2011

[S249.Ebook] Download PDF Frost, by Kathryn James

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Frost, by Kathryn James

  • Sales Rank: #3776132 in Books
  • Original language: English
  • Number of items: 1
  • Dimensions: 7.76" h x .87" w x 5.16" l, .52 pounds
  • Binding: Paperback

Most helpful customer reviews

0 of 0 people found the following review helpful.
so good
By Domenika Turkiewicz
needs to be a third book :) great series and very wonderful, i loved it so much! :)) fave book omg

0 of 0 people found the following review helpful.
Three Stars
By Eduardo
good

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Thursday, 18 August 2011

[D408.Ebook] Free Ebook Brain Boosters: 20 Minutes a Day to a More Powerful Intelligence, by Win Wenger

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  • Sales Rank: #46932 in Audible
  • Published on: 2014-10-14
  • Released on: 2014-10-14
  • Format: Original recording
  • Original language: English
  • Running time: 452 minutes

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Sunday, 14 August 2011

[D927.Ebook] Ebook Delivering Business Intelligence with Microsoft SQL Server 2012 3/E, by Brian Larson

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Implement a Robust BI Solution with Microsoft SQL Server 2012

Equip your organization for informed, timely decision making using the expert tips and best practices in this practical guide. Delivering Business Intelligence with Microsoft SQL Server 2012, Third Edition explains how to effectively develop, customize, and distribute meaningful information to users enterprise-wide. Learn how to build data marts and create BI Semantic Models, work with the MDX and DAX languages, and share insights using Microsoft client tools. Data mining and forecasting are also covered in this comprehensive resource.

  • Understand the goals and components of successful BI
  • Design, deploy, and manage data marts and OLAP cubes
  • Load and cleanse data with SQL Server Integration Services
  • Manipulate and analyze data using MDX and DAX scripts and queries
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  • Author interactive reports using SQL Server Data Tools
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  • Implement time-based analytics
  • Embed BI reports in custom applications using ADOMD.NET

  • Sales Rank: #238774 in Books
  • Published on: 2012-04-06
  • Original language: English
  • Number of items: 1
  • Dimensions: 9.30" h x 1.60" w x 7.30" l, 2.95 pounds
  • Binding: Paperback
  • 832 pages

About the Author

Brian Larson, MCSD, served as a member of the Reporting Services development team and has contributed to the code base. He is the Chief of Technology for Superior Consulting Services (SCS), a Microsoft Certified Partner currently developing a client solution that uses Microsoft Reporting Services for report production and distribution. Brian has been invited to speak on Reporting Services at several conferences, including SQL Server Magazine Connections, and has written articles for SQL Server Magazine.

Most helpful customer reviews

28 of 29 people found the following review helpful.
The Best Resource for Learning the SQL Server 2012 Business Intelligence Tools.
By T Anderson
Get ready to learn, but be ready to work for it. This book is packed full of hands on exercises the author calls "Learn by Doing". Every topic covered is accompanied by a "Learn by Doing" section. If you take the time to go through these while reading the book you will absorb triple the information. It takes a lot of time, but is definitely worth it.

The author does provide a download of all the databases and projects created throughout the book, so if you do not have time to manually type everything in, you can download and configure them. I did the exercises of the things I had not done before, but used the downloads to explore solutions of concepts I already had a pretty good understanding of.

Although this book is packed full of hands on exercises, it is also packed full of accompanying information. The first part of the book provides a great overview and foundation of Business Intelligence.

The second part of the book is where the hands on exercises begin. You dig deep into creating and populating Data Marts using SSIS. The third part of the book digs deep into creating Cubes and Multidimensional Expressions (MDX) scripting.

Part four covers the Tabular BI Semantic Model and the Data Analysis Expressions (DAX) Language. Part five first gives a really nice introduction to data mining, including covering some of the common algorithms used in data mining. It then covers the Microsoft tools available for mining.

The last part of the book covers the client tools available for delivering business intelligence including Reporting Services, Excel PivotTable and PowerPivot, SharePoint PerformancePoint, and Power View.

I have listed the six parts and their chapters below.

Part I: Business Intelligence
Chapter 1. Equipping the Organization for Effective Decision Making
Chapter 2. Making the Most of What You've Got--Using Business Intelligence
Chapter 3. Seeking the Source--The Source of Business Intelligence
Chapter 4. Two, Two, Two Models in One--The BI Semantic Model
Chapter 5. First Steps--Beginning the Development of Business Intelligence

Part II: Defining Business Intelligence Structures
Chapter 6. Building Foundations--Creating Data Marts
Chapter 7. Transformers--Integration Service Structure and Components
Chapter 8. Fill 'er Up--Using Integration Services for Populating Data Marts

Part III: Working with a Multidimensional BI Semantic Model
Chapter 9. Cubism--Measures and Dimensions
Chapter 10. Bells and Whistles--Special Features of OLAP Cubes
Chapter 11. Writing a New Script--MDX Scripting
Chapter 12. Pulling It Out and Building It Up--MDX Queries

Part IV: Working with a Tabular BI Semantic Model
Chapter 13. Setting the Table--Creating a Tabular BI Semantic Model
Chapter 14. A Fancy Table--Tabular BI Semantic Model Advanced Features

Part V: Mining
Chapter 15. Panning for Gold--Introduction to Data Mining
Chapter 16. Building the Mine--Working with the Data Mining Model
Chapter 17. Spelunking--Exploration Using Data Mining

Part VI: Delivering
Chapter 18. Special Delivery--Microsoft Business Intelligence Client Tools
Chapter 19. Let's Get Together--Integrating Business Intelligence with Your Applications

The downloadable code is very well organized and usable. The databases each have instructions on getting them setup and configured. Like I said above I did the exercises of the things I had not done before, but used the downloads to explore solutions of concepts I already had a pretty good understanding of. All the databases restored without error and all the projects deployed without issue after changing some of the security setting for my local environment.

One topic missing from the book is Master Data Services (MDS), but Microsoft does not include MDS as part of their defined BI solutions either.

Some of my favorite parts of the books included the coverage of Change Data Capture, the complete coverage of the Control Flow items and Data Flow items available in the SSIS Toolbox, the detailed coverage of the BI Semantic Model (BISM), and the coverage of the Data Mining tools.

I honestly do not think you will find a better resource for learning the SQL Server 2012 Business Intelligence Tools.

9 of 9 people found the following review helpful.
Excellent Learning Tool
By Dave
I have to say first off, that this book is extremely helpful in learning not only SQL Server 2012, but Business Intelligence practices as well. The writing is concise, and precise - meaning that it is easy to absorb the tremendous amount of information here quickly. Acronyms are spelled out frequently - usually at the beginning of each chapter, which while a little repetitive, really helps cement them in memory. The book is nicely divided into explanation, or lecture I'd call it, and guided exercises. The two combined really help to completely cover the topics, and it's separated and organized well so that if you're experienced with a certain topic or feature, you can either just read about it, or just do the exercise.

The book is fairly introductory, but moves to advanced topics quickly. You don't need extensive RDBMS experience to dive in, you don't need any programming experience, but if you don't know what a Primary Key and Foreign key are, you may struggle at times...

The only reason I didn't give this five stars is twofold. One is that I purchased the Kindle edition, and the screenshots and figures usually appear about a full page's text after they are referenced. In this time, the topic has usually shifted to something else, another operation, and what might have been a helpful graphic turns into an interruption. Additionally, the images are of such overly compressed and poor quality, you can actually notice the compression in standard view, and text is illegible when the image is enlarged.

The second reason for four stars, and something that may cause many others to also skip over large sections is the extensive coverage of individual windows. I guess some people might like it, and admittedly I have been using Visual Studio 2010 and SQL Server Management Studio (SQSMS) for a while, but even so, I don't think that the import data wizard needs several pages and numerous graphics - perhaps as a tutorial to use it, but not as just a description of what it does. That's fairly obvious and too well documented on MSDN to occupy so much page space. This focus repeats with a tremendous amount of space dedicated to images of different VS2010 and SQSMS windows. The hands on exercise assume you can just open these up yourself and look at them. If there were arrows, circled buttons, an image guide to the window that would be one thing, but they're just screenshots, and very poor ones at that on the Kindle.

Finally, the only inconsistency I've noticed so far is that compression is limited to Enterprise edition, Developer gives an error message stating this. I'm not complaining about this, as it is probably an issue of publication date and Microsoft business decisions, but instead I note it because other than that, the book and exercises are extremely accurate!

9 of 9 people found the following review helpful.
Tasting menu
By Dimitri Shvorob
The book covers SSAS, SSIS and SSRS, and it's clear that, even with 800 pages (half taken up by screenshots), it cannot be in-depth; instead, the goal is to get one's feet wet in each product, and get to a functional BI "deliverable". This is emphatically not a helicopter tour but a walk, as the approach is very hands-on, and the reader is asked to follow detailed sequences of steps to build a specific BI solution. There are three tentative "cons". First, the book is meant to be a stepping stone, and one can consider going with (three) specialist books on SSAS, SSIS and SSRS from the outset. (The leading candidate for the SSRS reference would be a book by Brian Larson himself, and SSIS could be covered by the book by Sarka, Lah and Jerkic). Second - and here I do dock a star - I think that some "helicopterness" would help. Early on, the book misses an opportunity to survey Microsoft's BI suite - I found this done nicely in "Microsoft SQL Server 2012 Analysis Services: The BISM Tabular Model" by Russo, Ferrari and Webb, for example. Then the (easy-on-the-author) running-through-the-screenshots commences, and I feel that this could have been made easier on the reader - for starters, by punctuating the more important steps. Finally, one can consider getting the older edition: the downsides of this approach deal with coverage of Tabular model, PerformancePoint and PowerView.

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Saturday, 13 August 2011

[O834.Ebook] PDF Download Happy, the NEW Sexy, by Cammi Balleck Ph.D

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You could be one of the forty million Americans suffering from a biochemical imbalance. The feelings we experience are nothing more than chemical reactions taking place inside our bodies. Some hormones are responsible for making us feel good; some are responsible for making us feel bad. To be happy, you must have your hormones balanced. This is a step-by-step guide for men and women of all ages to quickly bring your body’s hormones back into balance. To be happy, you must have your hormones balanced, and you can get results in forty-eight hours. When you follow this advice, you will feel more balanced and healthy. This book will without a doubt help you get rid of your depression, have a more stable mood, and live a much happier life. * Be hormonally balanced every day * Never be overwhelmed again * Stop your depression * Learn how to stop your panic attacks * Know how to stop anxiety * Never have another Pms day * Stop the mood rollercoaster * Eat to be happy (really!) * Stop being wired and tired * Turn around postpartum depression * Help your teen be happy * Get rid of your apple shape * Find balance while going through the change * Develop a sense of purpose * Achieve emotional stability * Turn around stressful days

  • Sales Rank: #2005456 in Books
  • Published on: 2013-10-08
  • Released on: 2013-10-08
  • Original language: English
  • Number of items: 1
  • Dimensions: 8.88" h x .84" w x 5.88" l, 1.09 pounds
  • Binding: Paperback
  • 372 pages

Most helpful customer reviews

1 of 1 people found the following review helpful.
best info I've ever read about my endocrine system,
By Shauna Glatz
best info I've ever read about my endocrine system, nutrients I need that I was missing and the real truth about western medical drugs

2 of 3 people found the following review helpful.
The best book I ever purchased
By Amazon Customer
I love this book!! I have been dealing with hypothyroidism for over 10 years now. I learned more about my thyroid from reading this book than I did from my doctors. There is so much information in this book and it covers every hormone. I purchased this book for me and it also gave me much needed information for my Autistic granddaughter. I purchased 2 more for my sisters. If you want to change your life for the better and feel great, I highly recommend this book. You won't be disappointed!!!

0 of 3 people found the following review helpful.
Perhaps the author should read this book?
By 3canines
Tempted to read, but.......... I live in the same town as Ms. Balleck, and see her in the grocery store, at BBQ's, etc. Sadly, she NEVER looks happy. Just saw her in City Market, looking very grumpy, frowny, unhappy, tried to smile at her and say "hello" but she just stomped on by. The reviews of those who have read the book are enticing, but WOW, Ms. Balleck is apparently NOT following her own advice?

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Saturday, 6 August 2011

[Q884.Ebook] Download PDF PHP Hacks: Tips & Tools For Creating Dynamic Websites, by Jack D. Herrington

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PHP Hacks: Tips & Tools For Creating Dynamic Websites, by Jack D. Herrington

Programmers love its flexibility and speed; designers love its accessibility and convenience. When it comes to creating web sites, the PHP scripting language is truly a red-hot property. In fact, PHP is currently used on more than 19 million web sites, surpassing Microsoft's ASP .NET technology in popularity. Not surprisingly, this surge in usage has resulted in a number of PHP books hitting the market. Only one, though, takes the language beyond traditional Web programming and into mapping, graphing, multimedia, and beyond: PHP Hacks.

In PHP Hacks, author Jack Herrington wrings out his 20 years of code generation experience to deliver hands-on tools ranging from basic PHP and PEAR installation and scripting to advanced multimedia and database optimizing tricks.

On the practical side of things, PHP Hacks helps you develop more robust PHP applications by explaining how to improve your database design, automate application testing, and employ design patterns in your PHP scripts and classes. In the category of "cool," Herrington explains how to upgrade your Web interface through the creation of tabs, stickies, popups, and calendars. He even examines how to leverage maps and graphics in PHP. There's also a bounty of image and application hacks, including those that show you how to:

  • Integrate web sites with Google maps and satellite imaging
  • Dynamically display iPhoto libraries online
  • Add IRC, SMS, and Instant Messaging capabilities to your Web applications
  • Drop the latest Wikipedia dictionary onto your Sony PSP
  • Render graphics and user interfaces with SVG, DHTML, and Ajax

Whether you're a newcomer or an expert, you'll find great value in PHP Hacks, the only PHP guide that offers something useful and fun for everyone.

  • Sales Rank: #1582631 in eBooks
  • Published on: 2005-12-12
  • Released on: 2009-02-09
  • Format: Kindle eBook

About the Author

Jack Herrington is an engineer, author and presenter who lives and works in the Bay Area. His mission is to expose his fellow engineers to new technologies. That covers a broad spectrum, from demonstrating programs that write other programs in the book Code Generation in Action. Providing techniques for building customer centered web sites in PHP Hacks. All the way writing a how-to on audio blogging called Podcasting Hacks. All of which make great holiday gifts and are available online here, and at your local bookstore. Jack also writes articles for O'Reilly, DevX and IBM Developerworks.

Jack lives with his wife, daughter and two adopted dogs. When he is not writing software, books or articles you can find him on his bike, running or in the pool training for triathlons. You can keep up with Jack's work and his writing at http://jackherrington.com.

Most helpful customer reviews

20 of 20 people found the following review helpful.
Useful For The Ideas It Offers; Graphics, Database and Testing Hacks
By Robert L. Cochran
I tried several of the hacks in this book and quickly scanned some others. It offers numerous ideas for dynamic web page presentation. Hack 11, "Put an Interactive Spreadsheet on Your Page", provides a fresh way to present tabular data in an Excel-like grid format, using a proprietary solution called ActiveWidgets. I downloaded the free version of the ActiveWidgets code and ran this hack. It is giving me ideas for how to present the kind of tabular data that might look good on a web page. At no cost, you can study a given bit of PHP code and decide for yourself if you can put it to further use.

I also tried Hack 10, "Send HTML Email". It works fine as stated, and for the first time I learned how to construct a multipart email. That is what prompted me to implement the hack, I have always wanted to do exactly this. I have some work to do with my sendmail mail transfer agent (MTA) software for this to work even better. The hack can be improved by showing how to avoid the problem of the MTA writing the wrong from and to email addresses and how to work around potential mail relaying issues. The bottom line, however, is that the code presented works as indicated.

I experimented with Hacks 4, "Build A Breadcrumb Trail", and 12, "Create Popup Hints". These work acceptably.

An exciting hack that I haven't tried yet is #44, "Scrape Web Pages For Data". I would like to use this one to scrape weather-related data from [...] for my zip code.

Another attention-getter are the hacks presented in Chapter 8, "Testing". I have not tried these hacks myself, but I think unit testing needs more attention in web pages that utilize heavy scripting, and I'll be sure to experiment with these hacks in two projects of my own that are currently ongoing. I definitely feel the need of automated testing.

Other good points about this book is that it offers hacks which cover graphics tricks such as implementing Scalable Vector Graphics (SVG). SVG deserves attention because the image renditions possible are stunning, and you can render them right now. Recent builds of Mozilla and Firefox support SVG natively and you do not need the Adobe plugin with these browsers. Author Herrington neglects to state this in Hack 28. When you see the graphical renditions you realize they are worth implementing in your PHP code.

I like the numerous screen shots the book provides. They offer a way to check my own results against what he suggests or shows are possible.

I would have given this book a 5 star rating if I had seen hacks that implement PHP Data Objects (PDO) with databases such as MySQL and SQLite. PDOs have been available in PHP for a long time now, I use them in most of my coding because they work so well and offer a cleaner interface to the database engine than the "traditional" PHP code taught in a lot of books. Likewise, there is a focus on PEAR programming, but in PHP version 6, which is now in development, there is no longer a default install of PEAR. Herrington also didn't test his Hacks code on different platforms. He appears to have settled on the Windows versions of Firefox 1.x, Apache server, and PHP. There is some reliance on Internet Explorer. I can see the results when I test his hacks in Mozilla and Firefox on the Linux OS. Indeed, it doesn't look like Herrington did extensive research for the book; otherwise he would have quickly learned that SVG is supported natively in Firefox. There is too much code printed, and not enough discussion about the code itself. I can download the example code easily enough; why print it at the expense of discussing it? The book index also needs improvement. You can see entries for "ActiveWidgets", for example, but not a related one for "widgets".

I ran all my tests of these hacks on Fedora Core 4 Linux, running MySQL 5.0.18, SQLite 3.2.x and higher, and development versions of PHP 6 available from [...] . I did not test these in Microsoft Windows XP.

This book belongs on your desk as you code PHP. I recommend studying it for the ideas it offers.

13 of 14 people found the following review helpful.
Outstanding PHP Tips & Tricks Book
By Dan McKinnon
'PHP Hacks' by Jack Herrington truly is a book of hacks, tips, and tricks that I have found to be very useful. Covering 100 different ways to use PHP to perform a myriad of different tasks, this book covers many of the neat things that can be done to turn your web site from 'bland to grand' with little effort required!!

Some highlights of what this book will enable you to do with your PHP-based web site:

Create a skinnable interface

Add tabs to your web interface

Put an interactive spreadsheet on your page

Create drop down lists

Create dynamic menus for your site

Make a DHTML slideshow

Create an interactive calendar

Create thumbnail images

Read XML easily with regular expressions

Create RTF and Excel documents dynamically

Turn any object into an array

Create a login system for your web site

Aside from these top hacks/tips that I especially enjoyed, there is also time spent on better object oriented development with PHP, advice for testing your site out, and a whole myriad of other outstanding things you can do!

If you use PHP at your job and you want to tack on some more skills, you would be at a loss if you didn't pick up a copy of PHP Hacks.

***** HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

6 of 6 people found the following review helpful.
best PHP reference I have used, bar none
By bytebreaker
I've read at least a dozen books on web development with PHP. This book is the best, by far!

The good:

* Excellent coverage of elegant PHP for dealing with databases and XML

* Outstanding explanation of automated code generation (a must for professional PHP developers)

* Description (and code implementation) of how to use design patterns with PHP. Former J2EE guys will love this.

* High quality prose and clear descriptions. I did not find any grammatical or spelling errors.

* Light sense of humor (without the unnecessary banter that one finds in most "... for Dummies" books)

The bad:

* Nothing.

As a software developer of 10 years, I give this book my highest recommendation.

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Wednesday, 3 August 2011

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Climbing Anchors (How To Climb Series), by John Long, Bob Gaines

This completely revised and updated edition with all new color photos�brings together in a single volume the anchoring systems most popular among climbers. Most climbers today learn their craft on artificial climbing walls and on sport routes with fixed protection. Their first efforts to lead on trad routes often come as a rude shock--they find that they haven't the skills and training to safeguard the climb or to set up solid belays. This new edition of Climbing Anchors is the climber's complete and authoritative source of information on protection, from fundamental knots to sophisticated rigging and equalizing skills.

  • Sales Rank: #81756 in Books
  • Size: One Size
  • Color: One Color
  • Brand: Globe Pequot Press
  • Model: Falcon Guides
  • Published on: 2013-07-02
  • Original language: English
  • Number of items: 1
  • Dimensions: 9.25" h x 7.50" w x .50" l, 1.20 pounds
  • Binding: Paperback
  • 224 pages
Features
  • Author: John Long, Bob Gaines
  • ISBN#: 9780762782079
  • Publisher: Falcon Guides
  • Publication Date: 2013
  • Jacket: paperback

From the Back Cover
Climbing Anchors, 3rd provides the most comprehensive, up-to-date, and easy-to-understand information on how to place protection and construct secure anchors to safeguard your life. John Long, the author of the definitive instructional manual How to Rock Climb!, applies the same clear, concise, and entertaining prose to this updated edition, illustrated with more than 100 photos.
Learn how to place and configure solid, secure anchors in a variety of real world climbing situations and see the pros and cons of many options. Natural anchors, passive chocks, mechanical chocks, fixed gear, knots, belay anchors, toprope anchors, and rappel anchors are all discussed in detail.
And, for the first time, the crucial dynamics of equalization and fall forces are thoroughly investigated, including an analysis of rigging systems. Tests conducted specifically for this book detail the true performance parameters of the cordelette, sliding X, and equalette, as opposed to the “traditional wisdom” that guided choices in the past—and was often wrong.
Completely updated and accompanied by all new color photos, Climbing Anchors provides all the essential knowledge needed for climbers to create safe, simple, and efficient rock climbing anchoring systems.

About the Author
John Long is the author of the best-selling How to Rock Climb!, the world's foremost book of climbing instruction, now in its fifth edition. He lives in Venice, California.

Most helpful customer reviews

14 of 15 people found the following review helpful.
A fine update to a classic
By Former Rater
Technology is always advancing. The world of climbing consisted of "crag men" and "alpinists" when I started. To say that we're a long way away from soft iron pins and hauser-laid nylon ropes is an understatement.

Today's tools to protect a climber are better engineered, startlingly lighter, and more versatile than five year old kit! Making safe and efficient use of today's tools involves a much steeper learning curve than at any previous time (that's why this book is on its third edition!).

Safe climbers will learn the ropes from other, more experienced, climbers - but, as so many of today's "sport climbers" began climbing indoors with well engineered safety systems and artificial holds - not everybody will have had the advantage of a mentor teaching them the mechanics of building bomb proof anchors. That's where this book and Craig Luebben's Rock Climbing Anchors become invaluable, required, additions to every climber's library.

This new edition is, as expected, up to date, including sections dealing with the uses and drawbacks of Aramid "tech cord" as well as nylon and dyneena/spectra ropes and slings. A detailed look at old bolts and bolt hangers is unique to this book and extremely timely material. Many 1/4" bolts and their hangers are found on standard routes and most, if not all, are traps for the unwary.

The use and placement of (at least) three pieces of bomber protection to craft Serene / Ernest belay anchors employing the cordelette or Web-O-Let equalization system is the heart of this book. How placements respond to loading direction, avoiding force multiplication by keeping load angles optimal, dealing with shifting loading, and stressing that no leader should ever fall directly onto the belay anchor are central chapters.

The bolt and pin (piton) chapters are not guides to the deployment of those tools - the scope of this book is limited in the sense that it does not teach a climber how and where to place a bolt - it teaches how to recognize and use safe bolts and gives a brief bit about the types of fixed pins one might encounter and how to deal with them (as for learning to use pins, the authors suggest an aspiring iron-monger take a rack of pins to an old crag and practice bashing in as many pins in as many places as possible - a fair enough bit of advice).

If you climb anywhere outside of a gym, you need this book and you need Luebben's book. Aside from what you can learn away from your nearest vertical playground, these two books will serve you well in bringing enough knowledge to the field that you will not be ignorant of what other climbers are doing right, and, especially, what they are doing wrong.

5 of 5 people found the following review helpful.
An indispensable reference guide and wakeup call
By A. Kagan
Having read the previous two editions and then given them to friends (sorry John, they never returned them!), I'm pleased to see the third edition has been updated with new gear and anecdotes, while continuing to be a great reference guide for climbing efficiently and safely.

Most importantly, Long strengthens the case for letting go of the idea that the cordelette is good for general purpose anchor-rigging, reinforcing that it should only be used in limited circumstances (specifically, only when the arms of the cordelette are the same length). He also clearly explains how to minimize loading on anchors, and how to tie in to anchors safely. This s*** is more than theoretical armchair advice...it will save your life one day, and you are better off learning the right way to do things early on, rather than after you've burned in a lot of bad behavior.

Climbing Anchors jumps right in to the subject matter and presupposes some basic rock climbing knowledge and vocabulary. This is an ideal book for intermediate climbers starting to lead multi-pitch routes, where you have to build an anchor instead of clipping a couple of bolts, although there is a lot of information on safely rigging and clipping bolted anchors and fixed protection as well. You'll learn a lot about equalizing load on pieces and building anchors that anticipate loading from multiple directions. Long will relentlessly drum into your head the importance of placing protection (the "Jesus Nut") ASAP after starting a pitch to protect you from falling directly on the anchor...because you only get one chance to get this right.

You will be surprised at how many assumptions you've made about redundancy and equalization that are likely mistaken...and you'll probably look back at some near misses (we've all had them) and realize how lucky you are that you didn't take a dirt nap. I can pretty much guarantee you will never clip into an anchor with a daisy chain again!

Climbing is serious fun, but the serious part shouldn't be overlooked, as the consequences are just too high. Bad anchoring techniques only need to fail once for you to be an example in the AAC's "Accidents" annals. You'll have a lot more fun when your confidence in your anchors is not misplaced!

Long's style is light and droll, with a smattering of humorous anecdotes. The book provides many full-page images and illustrations of anchor placements, along with many beautiful shots of classic routes that relate back to the subject matter.

Bottom Line: You will climb safer and enjoy more confidence on multipitch routes after reading this book.

2 of 2 people found the following review helpful.
Long and Gaines recommended v. Luebben
By Don Jon
I had read the Craig Luebben anchors book, but found it disorganized and vague at times. I have read the first 30pgs of Long and Gaines book and so far it is far superior to Luebben's text. Long and Gaines make clearly defined points which they support with physics, statistics and experience. Hand-waving scientific explanations are not proposed as fact. This text is clear and well reasoned, and therefore recommended over the Luebben text. (Admittedly I am only 1/6 through the text. Will update post upon further reading)

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